Tagged with innovation

Economics: The 0.01 Percent

 

In the issue 98 of Textile View, David Shah said:

The world’s biggest luxury goods purveyors enjoyed a record-breaking 2011. … this is a reflection of a new economic reality. We are not talking about recession here: we are talking about the polarization of wealth and the arrival of a very small, but fabulously wealthy stratum of society that has created a new, super luxury niche market.

 

So how are your couture sewing skills? Sounds like we’ll all have to take our opportunities where we can get them.

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The Power of Boredom

Boredom is a serious problem for me. I have always been energized by the beginning of a project, but once I get stuck into the actual work, my engagement drops to dangerously low levels. For a long time, I didn’t think this was a problem. Some people are detail people, some are big picture people. I believed that everyone should focus on their own strengths and not worry too much about things we’re not good at, because someone else who is good at that will pick up the slack

However, when I look around at all the big amazing projects I planned that have never been executed, I have to consider that maybe I can improve my performance in this particular area of my life.

First, I have started to look at my own mental habits and how they are affecting me. I have a tendency to live my life way out in the future; I have a strategic mind and that’s how I view the world. The Buddhist practice of mindfulness sees this tendency as leading to a lot of unhappiness. How can I function in this moment when I’m living my life in an imaginary future? Mindfulness is basically slowing down and putting one’s full attention into where one is and on what one is doing at this moment only. The idea is that if you really focus on everything that goes into a particular task, it is very difficult to be bored by anything.

The other thing that has sort of inspired me is this blurb from London’s School of Life sermon on Boredom with Will Alsop.

Without the kind of boredom that gives space for creativity and reflection, we risk the dullness of an uncreative life. The paint never dries and we make a muddy mire of things.

As often is the case with this sort of thing, maybe boredom says more about the bored person than the tasks or state of mind that is being labeled as “boring”. Ulltimately, boredom is an inescapable part of not just the creative process, but everything in life; it’s Seth Godin’s “dip” and the middle part between where the brilliant plan and the amazing reality meet by engaging in a lot of hard work. So it would probably be a good idea to figure out how to make being bored as fun as possible.

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Rekindling the Creative Spark

I have had my head down developing some new freelance projects and haven’t had a lot of time to think about much else. Also, my sister is getting married in a few weeks so there’s that.

I have been thinking a lot about creativity, specifically my own creativity and how I seem to have misplaced that spark in the day to day work of keeping food on the table and a roof over my head. Even though I now work in a field that is supposedly more creative, the work I’m doing is just as administrative as ever. I think Thomas Edison meant this when he said,”Success is 10 percent inspiration and 90 percent perspiration.”

When I’m in a rut I go back and read Hugh MacLeod’s manifesto “How to be Creative”, which lays out the process very well. But at the beginning of any creative venture, there’s the terrifying moment of facing the empty dot paper. David Seah calls this “The Blankness” and I think everyone is intimidated by this.

The only strategy I have ever been able to successfully implement in this area is doing whatever I feel like doing to get warmed up. This usually takes the form of improv piecing, which I can do without thinking and is very relaxing. Breaking free of the pressure to do something of value helps clear my mind and find a little more direction.

An old friend of mine used to say “write drunk, edit sober”, which is a short way of saying “just get started”. Getting started is the most challenging part.

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Retail Trends: The end of Big Box?

I haven’t posted lately, because work life has been … interesting.

Bloomberg as well as other outlets are reporting the end of the big box store (Wal-Mart, Target, K-Mart) era. It seems that schemes like Amazon Prime are offering people convenience and greater savings.

What does this mean for the fashion business?

This means that since people are shifting their focus to online buying, small labels with an e-commerce presence will be able to compete at a global level with even the big brands to a certain extent. This will make small producers even more competitive.

Maybe we’re seeing the beginning of the age of dominance of retailers like Shabby Apple!

Shabby Apple S12

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Retail Trends: Grownup fashion for kids

Another major trend we’re seeing is grownup designs for kids. The most stunning recent example of this is Diane Von Furstenberg for BabyGap.

Honestly, I was floored when I saw these. DVF for babies? Could there be anything cuter than that?

See what I mean?

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Spring 2013: Genteel Poverty

Another big retail trend we are seeing are people who used to buy high-end goods shopping at discount stores. Some of this is due to this group of shoppers being more conscious of their cash flow, but many of these are people who find themselves in reduced circumstances.

These shoppers are bringing a taste and sophistication to lower-end shopping.

 

Missoni and Liberty for Target

 

 

Vera Wang for Kohl’s

 

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Spring 2013 Trends

The Spring 2013 trend reports are out (yay!) Some trends I’m loving:

Bike style

 

More botanicals

 

Latin style

 

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Tools of the Trade: Inspiration File

Everyone interested in starting their own line, or even just developing a distinct personal style, should have an inspiration file. This is a place where you collect pictures of styles, color schemes, and even just people or things you think are stylish or inspirational.

I have been using Pinterest for this, because it’s easy to just pin up stuff from the web.

 

Stylesight has a tumblr with fantastic inspirational images.

Marie-Sophie Wilson and Linda Evangelista by Peter Lindbergh for Azzedine Alaia S/S 88

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Style Evolution

 I have been fascinated by the book Simple Modern Sewing by Shufu To Seikatsu Sha. She takes 8 patterns and gives instructions on how to make 25 different styles from them.

 Here is an example from the book. She made one wrap dress (on the left), and modified the pattern to make two different styles by changing a few details and the fabrics. Most fashion companies do the same thing, for a variety of reasons:

  • Cost  Every time a brand new design is created, it has to be draped or drafted, fitted, altered, and fitted again. This requires the use of a patternmaker, a fit technician, and a fit model. This is expensive. If you just modify an existing pattern, you can eliminate a lot of these steps.
  • Time  When developing a brand new style, there i always the chance that it will just never come out the way you want it to. If you are working with a new pattern that has to be fitted and fitted again, you could run the risk of not having it in time for market. That would be a lot of time and effort wasted.
  • Bestsellers If you had a style that sold out for one season,, it would be silly to just put it on the sample rack and forget about it. By changing a few details and the fabric of a bestselling style for a new season (for example, making a bestselling coverup in a warm fabric and selling it as a winter wrap), you can extend your selling season.
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